October 11

Very little sleep. Picked up and driven to the Dubai airport, where passage through the various stages is easy and efficient, made so by the novel concept of having sufficient staff at each step of the way. Isn't oil marvelous? We manage to get into an airport lounge. When we energy at 6:30 and head for our gate, the huge, modern airport is bustling with crowds and activity.


Our Emirates flight to Amman, Jordan is just under three hours. Unfortunately, when we pick up our luggage, we discover that one of our duffel bags has been ripped to the point that it can't be used. After an hour or so of waiting, forms and discussions, I convince the local Emirates agent to give us cash for the bag.


We are met by our guide, Suliman, and driver, Anton. Suliman will be with us for our entire stay in Jordan. He's young, good-natured, helpful and speaks English well, so we'll be well looked-after. Both Suliman and Anton are Christian, though the country is 95% Muslim. Anton is one of millions of Palestinians who have full Jordanian citizenship.


Water is a big problem in Jordan. The Dead Sea is dying and Jordan is the fourth poorest country in the world. As we leave Amman, we see many signs for the elections that are coming up next month.

We stop at Mt. Nebo, where Moses looked into the Promised Land before he died. Actually standing there and looking out over Jeruselum, Bethlehem, Jericho, etc. Is actually quite an emotional experience. The land on mount Nebo is owned by Frasiscans. The church in Moses honor is being renovated, so the mosaic church floor has been moved and is under tent cover.


From there we drive to nearby Madaba, where we are to see a famous mosaic map in a church. A very large crowd has gathered to line the streets, as their beloved King Abdullah II is visiting and will be passing by in five minutes. Banners line the streets, school children, out of school, chant and wave flags. It's a very fun and festive scene and, while there are police and some army present, the security is all very low-key and pleasant. We spend an hour waiting for the 5 seconds that the king will ride by, waving, but it's fun and memorable.

We do go on to see the map mosaic, which is fine, but a bit anti-climactic after the king. After that, we go to a restaurant, where a much too large lunch has been ordered, most of which we do not eat.


Continue on several hour drive to Petra through arid land, trying to doze off a bit to offset lack of sleep last night. Arrive at charming Taybet Zaman, styled in the form of an old village, with windy stone streets. This place was suggested by our friend, Karen Carlson, and is a definite find, differing from the no-doubt-nice, but standard fare that we'd otherwise had. Taybet is not close to the archeological site, but the ambiance is very much worth the distance. Our room, a junior suite, has great character and comfort.

After a very short rest, we are picked up for transport to Petra by night, a walk down candlelit paths through the stone gorges, over uneven terrain that culminates at the Treasury, the centerpiece of the Petra site. One cannot really see anything along the way, though the walk is quite pleasant and the Treasury, imposing. The show at the end was rather hokey, and we could have done without it. Overall, the walk was worth the effort, though not quite the magical experience that I'd anticipated. We'd overdressed for the expected chilly walk and so were hot.

Shower and collapse for much-needed rest.